Getting a good helmet mount shot sounds simple until you actually try it. The angle is wrong, the footage is shaky, or the mount keeps shifting mid-ride. I've gone through a few different setups over the years — cycling, motorcycling, skiing — and I've learned that the mount matters just as much as the camera.
Here's what I've figured out.
Top Mount vs. Chin Mount: The Angle Changes Everything
The most common mistake I see is people defaulting to a top-of-helmet mount without thinking about what they actually want to capture.
A top mount gives you a high, wide POV shot — great for showing the environment around you, but it can feel disconnected from the action. You see a lot of sky and not much of what's directly in front of you.
A chin mount is completely different. It sits at face level and captures exactly what you're looking at — the road, the trail, the slope. The footage feels more immersive and personal. I switched to a 360-degree rotatable chin mount for most of my riding content and haven't looked back. The ability to rotate the angle without removing the mount is something I use constantly.
Magnetic Quick-Release: Worth It for Motorcycles
If you ride a motorcycle, a magnetic quick-release chin mount is a game changer. Stopping to swap cameras or adjust angles used to mean pulling over and fiddling with screws. With a magnetic mount, I can detach the camera in one motion and reattach it just as fast.
The magnetic connection is stronger than it sounds — I've used mine at highway speeds without any issues. Just make sure the base is properly secured to the helmet before you rely on it.
Head Strap: When You Don't Have a Helmet
Not every shoot involves a helmet. For hiking, kayaking, or any activity where I'm not wearing one, a magnetic quick-release head strap harness is my go-to. It sits comfortably, stays in place during movement, and the magnetic release means I can hand the camera off quickly without stopping.
The footage from a head strap is similar to a chin mount — you get a natural, eye-level POV that feels engaging to watch.
NVG-Style Side Mount: For a Different Perspective
I started using an NVG-style side mount (the kind that attaches to the side rail of a helmet) after seeing the footage style in some motorcycle and cycling content. It gives a slightly offset angle that looks different from the standard top or chin shot — more cinematic, less GoPro-generic.
The aluminum quick-release version I use makes it easy to swap between cameras and adjust the position. It's not for everyone, but if you want your footage to stand out, it's worth experimenting with.
Universal vs. Camera-Specific Mounts
Most of the mounts I use are universal — they work with GoPro, DJI Osmo Action, Insta360, and most other action cameras with a standard mount interface. This matters if you use more than one camera, which I do.
The one exception is vertical mount adapters, which are sometimes camera-specific. If you shoot vertical content for social media, a vertical mount adapter lets you rotate the camera 90 degrees without rotating the whole mount — useful for Reels and Shorts.
What I'd Recommend Starting With
If you're just getting into helmet mounting, start with a chin mount. The footage is more engaging than a top mount, and most chin mounts are universal enough to work with whatever camera you have. From there, add a magnetic quick-release system if you find yourself swapping cameras often — it saves more time than you'd expect.
The right mount won't make your footage perfect on its own, but the wrong one will definitely hold it back.
Leave a comment